Columbian Review - December 11, 2009
Tavern’s fare is hearty, savory
BY KAREN PERSSON
FOR THE COLUMBIAN
The La Center Tavern’s Irish Stew is made with lamb, peas, onions and mushrooms. (Steven Lane/The Columbian)
Those who appreciate beer will find a wide selection. There are more than 80 beers — on tap and in bottles — from more than 16 countries and 14 states.
Atmosphere: The back bar, from one of La Center’s original saloons that was burned down, is the only remaining historical element that is visible to diners. Even so, La Center Tavern’s decor creates the impression of stepping back in time. The retro-modern appearance includes a long bar flanked by two large-screen TVs. This bar extends toward the back of the tavern where there is a pool table. Bistro tables and chairs fill in the open space. Most of the surfaces are wood, and mirrors and paintings line the walls above the wainscoting.
This is a true tavern and diners must be 21 or older.
What I tried: I decided on the Irish Stew and I also sampled the Shepherd’s Pie. Both dishes were served with a dinner roll and butter.
The stew at the tavern is traditional, made with lamb, peas, onions and mushrooms stewed in a rich brown sauce made with Guinness. Underneath the stew, at the bottom of the bowl, there is a serving of mashed potatoes which add some diversity to the dish and keep it interesting. The meat was my favorite component. It was extremely tender and the gaminess that is often present in lamb was quenched by the Guinness, which also added a full, robust flavor to the dish.
The Shepherd’s Pie, made with ground beef, had an earthy sage flavor and a coarse casserole-type texture. Thick brown gravy was poured over the top before the mashed potatoes were added. Both dishes came in generous portions.
Mashed potatoes at the tavern are made with cottage cheese and sour cream for an extra-hearty flavor and consistency beyond the typical smooth creamy presence of standard mashed potatoes.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Appetizers include Banger Bites, which are two grilled German sausages served with three different styles of mustard. There’s also a Tavern Burger made with Angus beef, organic greens, tomatoes, onions, mayonnaise, mustard and a choice of Tillamook cheddar, jalapeño jack or Swiss cheese. A dish called Meatloaf and Mash incorporates Italian sausage in addition to standard meatloaf ingredients.
Cost: Appetizers are $6 to $8. Soup is $3 for a cup and $6 for a bowl. Hot and cold sandwiches range from $5 to $8. Burgers and salads start at $6 and top out at $10. The menu’s Traditional Faire items are $9 to $11. Nonalcoholic beverages are $2 to $4.
Other observations: With all the wood surfaces, there isn’t much to absorb sound, so the tavern can get very lively. The food was flavorful, hearty and fresh. Service was friendly and efficient. On Thursdays there is live music, and karaoke is offered Friday.
Hours: 4p to 10p Taco Tuesday, 5p to 10p Wednesday, 5p to 12a Thursday, 5p - 2a Friday, 5p - 1a Saturday, CLOSED: Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 360-263-9920.
Online: lacentertavern.com.
Where: 107 East Fourth St., La Center.
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